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Not so successful is the Wild Ginger roll. Although the raw state of the fish might be a little unusual, it's no more or less than an over-large canapAc, and you could argue that the flavors find a compatible union that succeeds brilliantly. Goat cheese works - especially in the sashimi Napoleon ($12), where it's mixed with olives, tuna and salmon atop a fried wonton. The sushi and sashimi are also expertly prepared, and most of the special rolls are Japanese-Western amalgams that are, along a spectrum, very good to somewhat questionable. There are even a whole slew of steak options, including a filet mignon ($27) and a New York strip ($25), all cooked perfectly.
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The seafood curry pot ($21), stuffed full of seared scallops and shrimp, has just a bit of heat and a fragrant, classic Thai coconut sauce, and a big bowl of rice topped with nutty sesame seeds comes along for the ride. A minute or two less on the grill would be better, but the light tempura squares of sweet potato piled under them have a delicate crunch. Pork chops ($18) are hammered thin and glisten with a savory-sweet coffee sauce. The fried oysters ($9) are sauced with a bit of soy, vinegar, garlic and ginger, and arrive atop diced red pepper and onions in a noodle basket. With its black tables and superlative service, the restaurant becomes a place to stay put and perhaps enjoy an extra glass of wine from its glassed-in cellar between the bar and the dining room.Īlthough ostensibly a sushi restaurant, Wild Ginger's emphasis is more pan-Asian, and the dishes from the kitchen get as much attention as the raw fish. A column of glowing blue bubbles rises dramatically behind the sushi bar. It's a mix of coppery and steel-hued walls, with deep, purple-brown breaks stenciled almost invisibly with plum blossoms. Wild Ginger, like its siblings, Osaka Sushi & Steak and Sushi-O, is no different. The atmosphere is calm, the music unobtrusive, and the interior, done in a subtle palette of wide color swaths, emphasizes interesting and sometimes quirky focal points.
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Restaurants these days are low-key, minimalistic spaces where waiters glide effortlessly through efficiently designed floor plans.
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